The Iranian exiles bar where revolution is dreamed up
In a basement bar in Yerevan, Iranian rebel fighters, artists, and refugees gather over beer to discuss the realities of life under the Iranian regime — but they can’t stop looking over their shoulder
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YEREVAN, Armenia —A handful of Iranian businesses cluster together at the end of Firdawsi alleyway, a sidestreet named after the famous Persian poet.
Sandwiched between an Iranian barbershop and the end of the alleyway is an establishment called Rose’s Bar.
Despite being one of the world’s few Iranian bars – alcohol is banned in Iran – the small, underground drinking hole rarely has enough customers to outnumber the staff. But that may well be a source of comfort for its clientele – many of whom are paranoid after fleeing an authoritarian surveillance state.
As the situation in Iran reaches a crisis point, the number of those fleeing Iran and seeking refuge in neighbouring countries like Armenia rises — bringing Iranians to places like Rose’s.
On Saturday the U.S. and Israel launched joint strikes on government buildings and military infrastructure across Iran. Trump’s strikes have directly weakened Iran’s power base and have even resulted in the death of Khamenei, Iran’s Supreme Leader – bringing the Islamic regime to its weakest point in history.
But despite how fragile the regime has become in the last few months, the terror it has inflicted leaves its own type of psychological wound.
Rose’s Bar may be a refuge, but new refugees can’t seem to escape the habits of living under an authoritarian regime. They know that just a few hours south, the same scene – men and women together discussing politics over alcohol – could be grounds for execution.
Dissidents and regime loyalists alike visit Rose’s smoky, below-ground haven in central Yerevan. The shared language and experience among Iranian customers at Rose’s offers familiarity, but not necessarily trust: voices drop when a newcomer enters the room.
But the meager customers and underground atmosphere also makes Rose’s VIP room perfect for sensitive interviews with Iranians wanting to remain anonymous.
Over the course of one week, The Counteroffensive met with a Kurdish activist who used a smuggled Starlink device to connect with the world; an Iranian DJ whose anti-regime rap made him a criminal; and Majid, who despite two death sentences, gunshot wounds, and torture refuses to hide his face.
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On the bar’s dark walls hang haunting, shadowy, photos of beautiful women and half-lit streets. American country or afro-house play over the speakers – music you’d never hear in Tehran. The songs make it almost impossible to eavesdrop on whispered conversations in the smoky VIP room, a seating area that is only accessible with permission.
Most Iranian customers who come through Rose’s aren’t confident ordering an alcoholic drink, said Ahmed, the bartender whose brother-in-law owns the business. The most popular choices are usually a beer or a Jack Daniel’s whiskey – unsurprising considering the comically large Jack Daniel’s bottle that sits atop the bar.
Ahmed has had to coach customers through their first orders, explaining what the different cocktails are and how they taste.
Most people in Iran who do drink are used to cheap stuff with a horrific aftertaste. In Armenia, Iranians have the option to try something nicer, and it’s a new experience for them, Ahmed explained.
But the higher prices mean most recent refugees who’ve left everything behind in Iran can’t linger here for long.
This creates an air of suspicion among customers at Rose’s Bar: Is the group sitting at the table nearby Iranians seeking refuge in Armenia? Or are they regime sympathisers on a city break, taking advantage of the open border and their ability to return without risk?
“In Iran, you have to know your audience to talk about politics,” Ahmed said.
Even Hossein, who joined two Kurdish militia groups and fought against ISIS before the age of 22, went quiet in the middle of our interview when a group of Iranian women took up a neighboring table. As soon as the women entered, he sent a look to signal the interview was over.
Remaining anonymous is critical for him. For a week he refused to be interviewed, fearing it could jeopardize his chances of returning to Iran.
Hossein only plans to spend a few months in Armenia, working to earn money for his wife and 2-year-old daughter. After serving time in prison for his involvement in Kurdish militia groups, finding work in Iran is unfeasible.
Despite his experience, his disposition is cheerful, accentuated by his slight lisp and healthy head of curls. He’s one of the few Iranians who can keep in constant contact with his family via a Starlink device that a friend’s cousin smuggled in from Iraqi Kurdistan.
In Iran, Hossein lives near police and military housing, but he still feels safe using Starlink, the satellite internet company which is banned in Iran. Anybody that knows it’s there wants to use it too, he said.
Hossein is one of the lucky ones whose family survived the protests. He was even able to Facetime his young daughter from Rose’s during the interview. As strikes in Iran continue, access to reliable outside communication will only grow more urgent.
Other people, like Behnom Haqshenas, have lost everything.
Behnom, a rapper and music producer, was accused by the regime of satanic conspiracy for a poster he hung in his studio of an eye inside a triangle. It was really just art, Behnom explained.
“I posted a video of me rapping about the protests in Tehran in 2018, and about a week after my studio was shut down,” Behnom said.
After the government shut down his studio, he could no longer teach music classes, and it became impossible to make a living.
Behnom made a sacrifice leaving Iran. His daughter, who is only 10, won’t speak to him. She doesn’t understand why he left, he explained. Whether military action in Iran will make it safer for him to return or push Iran deeper toward instability remains unclear.
“I’m fine,” Behnom said when asked how he was doing. “But ask me again and I’ll cry,” he said, visibly trying to hold back tears.
For others, losing everything has emboldened them, making them feel like they can sacrifice anything.
Majid Farokhnia’s life took a turn about a decade ago, when his brother was executed on what Majid said were false charges. After his brother’s death, his mother, overcome with grief, set herself on fire.
Majid himself was arrested for protesting during the massive demonstrations that broke out across Iran in 2022 following the death of Mahsa Amini, a 22-year-old woman who was beaten to death in police custody for violating Iran’s hijab laws.
While describing the horror of what he saw at the protests, Majid unzipped his black winter coat to reveal soft lines of scar tissue on the left side of his chest from being shot.
His light eyes stood out against his tired face. He is only 34, but his trauma has taken a toll.
For the protests, Majid spent 8 months in prison, two of which were in solitary confinement, where he said he was interrogated and tortured by intelligence police. They took advantage of his vulnerable state by also threatening his daughter’s safety, he said.
Majid received two death sentences, one for protesting and the other for influencing others to protest.
Over and over, prison guards came into his cell to tell him he would be executed at 5 a.m. the next day. When he lived to see another day, they repeated the same threats. The experience has changed who he is today:
“I just want revenge,” he explained.
After his release from prison, staying in Iran was too risky, so Majid left for Armenia.
Despite his trouble with the Iranian government and his plans to return, Majid is determined to show his face to reporters and break through the culture of silence that exists among Iranians.
Unlike many others we interviewed, Majid didn’t lower his voice like the others when the bartender came in to offer us a delicious plate of brined, smoked cheese doused in lemon juice.
Majid is aware of the potential consequences of his activism and how it may endanger his family. Still, he chooses to speak up.
Just hours after the initial strikes early Saturday morning, Majid was anxious to get back to Iran: “If I had the money, I would buy a ticket right now and go.”
NEWS OF THE DAY:
By Oksana Stepura
Good morning to readers; the Iranian regime has not fallen – yet.
IRAN CONFIRMS ALI KHAMENEI’S DEATH: Iranian state media confirmed the death of Ali Khamenei in joint U.S.-Israeli airstrikes and declared a 40-day mourning period as the Iranian government vowed continued retaliation.
IRANIANS CELEBRATE ASSASSINATION: Following the death of Ali Khamenei, large crowds across Iran took to the streets to celebrate with fireworks, dancing, clapping and chants of “freedom” .
STRIKES ESCALATE AFTER KHAMENEI DEATH: Following the assasination of Khamenei, Iran has retaliated with new missile and drone attacks on Israel and across the gulf, while Israel has launched a new wave of attacks on Tehran, with casualties being reported on both sides.
IDF KILLS TOP IRANIAN DEFENSE OFFICIALS: The IDF has announced the deaths of several additional high-ranking Iranian security officials, including the former secretary of Supreme National Security Council and the commander of the IRGC in a surprise intelligence-led strike in Tehran. The IDF claims it targeted officials responsible for Iran’s missile programs, protest suppression, proxy groups coordination, and efforts to develop nuclear weapons, biological and chemical weapons .
CIA HELPED TARGET IRANIAN LEADERSHIP: After tracking Khamenei for months, the CIA identified the gathering spot of Iran’s top leadership in Tehran and provided intelligence that allowed Israel and the U.S. to adjust the timing of the planned strike that killed Khamenei and several senior military and security officials.
BELGIUM SEIZES RUSSIAN TANKER W TIES TO IRAN: Belgian forces boarded and seized a Russian oil tanker in the country’s first operation targeting Russia’s “shadow fleet” tankers. The vessel is also linked to a maritime network controlled by Mohammed Hossein Shamkhani, son of the former secretary of the Supreme National Security Council, which reportedly transports Iranian and Russian oil and petroleum products worldwide, earning billions in revenue.
U.S. CONTRACTORS IN KUWAIT REPORT SAFETY CONCERNS: U.S. civilian contractors working on military bases in Kuwait say they lack adequate shelters, and clear safety/evacuation protocols amid Iranian missile attacks in the region. The workers also claim that U.S. military personnel were evacuated, while they weren’t given the option to evacuate.
CAT OF CONFLICT:
Myroslava’s Sheri is basking in the rays of the long-awaited spring sun.
Stay safe out there.
Best,
Alessandra and Jacqueline
Thanks you for that excellent reporting about Iranians in Armenia. That is not the kind of reporting that US media cares about any longer. Your courage and determination are admirable, and I look forward to your reporting on trump's new war with Iran. With trump and his incompetent admin at the helm, I have a filling that there will be more unexpected fallout from this attack. While the demise of ruthless dictators is better for all, I still wonder why trump supports the Butcher of Bucha. Much still left to be learned. Keep up the great work!